Unknown Pleasures

Unknown Pleasures is a gorgeous crag perched on an awesome shelf overlooking the canyon. It stays out of the sun for most of the day, making it a perfect shady escape during the hottest hours. The approach starts by crossing a beautiful stream, followed by a 10-minute hike past Black Magic Cave before reaching Unknown Pleasures.

The crag offers everything from 5.7 to 5.12d, with most of the routes landing in the 5.12 range. Be ready for incredible views and, more often than not, very few people. This crag can be a little more challenging with kids because there are plenty of exposed edges and some fairly tight belay spots.

Persona Non Grata 5.10b →

Awesome, stemmy climb up in a corner. I always love doing this route because it feels very technical without being overly difficult. I always find myself a little sketched out at the last two bolts since they're awkward to reach, but aside from that, most, if not all, of the bolts are in great positions. The protection lets you focus on pulling some really fun moves without feeling too run out.

Make sure to say hi to the spider that's made its home on one of the most prominent holds. Luckily, the hold is completely avoidable, so you won't have to commit any breaking and entering.

Desperation Takes Hold 5.11d/5.12a →

If you're looking for something a little harder without it being a miserable experience that'll make you regret pushing yourself, this is the climb. It starts with some punchy, bouldery moves that lead into an awesome roof, while still offering plenty of great rest positions throughout.

It's the highest-rated climb at the crag, and many people consider it one of the best 5.12a routes in the canyon. The last time I was here, I hopped on it as I was working my way up the grades, and I absolutely loved it. It was incredibly fun from start to finish, and it's definitely a route I'd love to come back and climb again.